My Moen Adler faucet I installed 7 years ago is failing and is difficult to turn to the off position. I had suspected it was starting to fail when there was a bit of play turning the handle several months ago. Though replacement 1222 cartridges range in price from $25-$75, Moen has lifetime warranties. I called their customer support and a new cartridge will be shipped to me with no hassle or proof of purchase. Checking youtube videos and reading reviews, it is recommended to get a cartridge puller in case the old one is stuck. I was able to find inexpensive pullers on both Aliexpress and Amazon for around $16. I does appear the cartridge only lasts about 5-7 years.
When I installed the faucet (post here), I did contemplate adding shutoff valves in case I needed to change the cartridge. In hindsight, I should have done this since I will need to shut off the main water supply to install the new one.
I have seen panel failures with wide vertical bands. The vertical sections are fed by flex connectors TAB (Tape Automated Bond) bonded to panel boards at the bottom of the TV. TAB bonding uses expensive specialized equipment and ripped connections are not economically repairable. The flex connector could also contain an embedded COF (chip on flex) IC. If the IC fails, there could be artifacts within the vertical band. If the flex is completely ripped off, the corresponding vertical section will be dark with no signal. Liquid (such as windex) trickling into the bottom of the bezel can also damage the panel boards. Random single pixel vertical lines are also panel damage and not repairable. You can google the Sony Tcon Training Manual to see examples of other panel failures.
My parents house built in the 70s has aluminum wiring and lights and outlets had been updated previously without consideration for the compatibility of fixtures with aluminum. Though aluminum wiring can still be used, there is increased fire risk due to contact with dissimilar metals. In preparation for an electrical inspection required by the home insurance company, I updated previously changed outlets and switches.
My initial updating involved adding copper pigtails to Decora styles (non-aluminum compatible) switches and outlest using Alumiconn terminals. These are pretty expensive at around $5 a connector and required three per outlet (hot, neutral, and ground). The box will get a little crowded adding these and they also needed to be screwed fairly tightly. The connectors have anti-oxidation gel inside the connectors.
After pigtailing most of the outlets, I found out that they still manufacture aluminum compatible switches and outlets available at both Home Depot and Lowes. Though they cost 3x more than a standard copper outlet, it is still less expensive than 3 alumiconn connectors and less work to replace.
Previously, #63 marette connectors with anti-ox (oxgard) was used for aluminum to copper connections and both are still available. Ideal Aluminum to Copper connectors (purple cap) are also available at Home Depot Canada and come prefilled with anti-ox inside the cap.
I had found a burnt terminal on a non-aluminum compatible outlet installed to aluminum wiring used by a toaster oven in the kitchen plus a burnt aluminum to copper splice (incorrect wire cap and no ox-gard).
In hindsight, I would have done the following to minimize both cost and effort.
Replace all non-aluminum compatible switches and outlets with aluminum compatible.
For lighting fixtures, use pigtails with #63 marettes and ox-guard or Ideal Al/Cu wirecaps
For splices, use Alumiconn connectors or Ideal Al/Cu wirecaps
My Maytag dishwasher soap dispenser stopped releasing and it wasn’t really a big deal since you could just put the soap in beforehand without using the timed release. I assumed the problem was the actuator which releases the spring loaded lid. My model was PDB3600AWE and the actuator part number is 902899. I opened up the panel to confirm the correct part (few videos on youtube) and ordered a new one from ebay. When I went to install it, I noticed the wire going to the part was cut near the door hinge. This damage was likely the problem and not the actuator itself. Resoldering the wire confirmed the old actuator was working. To test the actuator before suspecting it is bad, the resistance of the new one is around 2.5K ohms.
I thought that the wipers needed an adjustment but the main culprit is a worn bushing on a wiper rod. The entire rod needs to be replaced.
Here are two youtube videos to for this repair. It is relatively simple but here are some extra tips.
You do not need to remove the enitre wiper assembly. The rod can be removed with the assembly bolted in place. I used a rubber mallet to pound the new one back in.
The weatherstripping does not need to be completely removed. You only need to remove it up to the split point where the two sections join. I removed it from the shorter passenger side. To put it back in, it is held by T-clips. It is easier to pry out the clip first before inserting it back into the weatherstrip.
There are only 3 clips holding the cowel down. They are on the edge of both sides and at the point where the two sections join.
Have a vaccuum ready to clean out any debris under and around the cowel and wiper bolts.
You don’t have to replace the two rods in the wiper assembly. The shorter upper rod (Rod Unit A) tends to wear out on the inside bushing. Part number is 76540-S6M-003
This smart TV was reported to be shutting off on its own. When I plugged it in, it appeared to be fine but when I connected via wifi to the internet, it started to shut down after a few minutes. This model uses an all-in-one combination board with no separate wifi module that can be replaced. In order to factory reset it, I had to turn off my wifi and use the remote code menu-0-0-0-0-0-0 to get to the service menu. This model is similar to Element brands as well. I tried using wired ethernet and the TV shut off as well. Replacement of the board would be more than the value of the TV.
My factory alarm failed to arm after pressing lock on my key fob and I suspected a bad actuator. The alarm will not arm if all the doors and the trunk are not locked. I had replaced both door actuators already with OEM ones so have encountered this previously. Checking all of my locks, the trunk was not locking.
Found this guide here for replacing the trunk actuator. Confirming the part number 74896-S6M-A01 online, I found an aftermarket for $13 USD on ebay, Dorman 746-747 for $70 USD on Amazon and an OEM for $130 USD. Ordered the cheap aftermarket one since I don’t intend to keep the car for long. OEM pricing is pretty ridiculous for a molded part with just a small electric motor and some gears.
In the meantime to lock the car, there is an access panel in the hatch for replacing the third brake light bulb. There is a white lever accessible which can be switched to lock the trunk. If it is unlocked, you can switch it to the locked position before closing the trunk. If you can’t unlock it with the remote, you can crawl through the trunk to unlock it.
Will update once I install it and see how long it lasts.
The Samsung NU series has a high rate of backlight failures causing dark vertical bands or dark sections of the screen. See post here. The one repaired here has the right side dark. The backlights are edge lit from the bottom and running in Dynamic mode and at maximum level will tend to burn these out pretty quickly.
This model has two strips with each wired in left and right banks. Though only one side was bad, I replaced both with new strips. Part number is AOT_55_NU7300_NU7100_2X40_3030C There are a few sellers on ebay.
I was lucky and the light spreading inner panel was not burnt by the hot LEDs.
Edge lits are very finicky and any imperfection will cause an uneven backlight or bright spots.
This TV had a fan error displayed on the TV. Removing the back cover showed the fan caked in dust. I vacuumed and sprayed duster on it and it was spinning when I turned the TV on. You can see the location above the VGA port so you may be able to clean it without removing the back.
If your apps are running slow or giving errors, you should try a factory reset.
1. With TV off. Press Mute-1-8-2-Power and TV should come on with the service menu. Hit OK on OPTION, OK on Factory Reset and OK again on Factory Reset. You should just press OK three times in a row. TV should reset. Be very careful in the service menu since you can brick your TV changing things.
2. Go through the setup wizard and complete it to the end
Backlight failure is common in LED TVs. Keeping the backlight level at around 55% will make them last. I would also recommend turning off eco sensor which automatically adjusts the backlight level based on the ambient light.
3. Turn off Eco Sensor: Menu ->System->Eco Solution – Turn Eco Sensor OFF 4. Turn down the Backlight: Menu -> Picture Set Backlight level to between 10-12. It should apply to all sources by default.
Motion smoothing will sharpen images for fast actions like sports but will make movies too sharp and look like soap operas. 5. Menu -> Picture ->Picture Options Turn OFF LED Clear Motion