This TV has a standby light but wouldn’t turn on or respond to the on/off button on the remote or side buttons. I was able to get it turn on randomly however.
Typically the suspect in these cases is the main board. I froze the EEPROM with an upside down can of duster and was able to get it turn on a few times. The part number for UF1 was W25Q16BSIG (16Mbit flash). I was able to read the contents with my CH341 programmer and I experimented by programming it into W25Q64BV (64Mbit) flashes I had. With new and larger flash installed, there was no standby light. I erased the original flash, reprogrammed it, and reinstalled it and it does appear fixed.
I have ordered the 16Mbit ICs in case the TV comes back with the same problem. I also turned down the backlight in the service menu to level 60. In this model, it needs to be done on all inputs and is saved under the User picture mode.
The owner indicated the flashlights were flashing which typically is a sign of failing backlights. I had asked them to turn down the backlight level and it was fine for a few weeks before the picture went dim. Testing the strip, 5 out of 68 LEDs were bad so I replaced the single strip. Powering up the TV, they would flash on power up before shutting off though they were all lighting up. The strips are wired as 4 banks of 17 LEDs and each bank tested good and measured 51V on my LED tester (3V LEDs). I have run into the issue of bad LEDs damaging the power supply so suspected the controller IC may have been damaged as well.
Searching online, there are a few reports of the OZ9998HDN IC overheating and needing replacement with symptoms of a flashing backlight.
I ordered the ICs from Aliexpress and the power supply did not turn on the backlights with both ICs that I installed. I ended up buying a new power supply board and this finally fixed the TV.
50L3400U is a similar model. I have run into this problem before with Toshibas where there is both LED and power supply damage.
The owner indicated he heard a pop and the TV died. He also found the main fuse blown. The power supply part number is BN44-00717A. Blown fuses typically are caused by shorted diodes and FETS and I found a short in one of the two PFC switching FETs 60R360 (NCH, 600V, 9A). I replaced both QP801C and QP802C with IPAN50R500 (NCH, 500V, 11A). The PFC circuit runs at 400V and the main filter caps are only rated to 450V so the lower voltage should be ok.
With the FET and fuse replaced, the TV powered up. I did recommend to the owner to not run in Dynamic mode since it could burn out the backlights.
With these symptoms, the backlights are suspect though I haven’t encountered this exact model before. The failures were intermittent so it was a bit tricky to find the source of the problem. With the TV apart, my LED tester got all strips to light though one strip measured a bit higher voltage than the others. With the TV powered up, I observed the suspected bad strip fail first before all the backlights shut down. Testing the strip, I found one bad LED (replaced with 6V) and the connector between the left and right strips was broken causing an intermittent connection.
With the TV together, I turned down the backlight level to 50 and also turned off the Dynalight feature.
This TV had no backlight but would turn on and off. Opening up the back, the power supply HTX-PI420402A had four pairs of wires going to the LED strips. I powered one pair with my LED tester and could observe the splash screen and confirmed that video was good.
I decided to open up the TV to check the strips and this edge lit TV used four sets – one at each side and two along an edge. All strips tested fine with my LED tester.
Shopjimmy sells a repair kit which includes two ICs and two FETs to repair the backlight circuit. I checked the FETs and diodes and none were shorted. Searching the power supply part number on badcaps, there was a suggestion to check the transformer for cold solder joints.
I found a cold joint and there were some clues if I had inspected the board more carefully. There was a scorch mark above the joint on the top of the PCB. The bottom of the PCB had an insulator sheet that had a hole at the cold joint location. And there was a crackling noise coming from the board occasionally, caused by the joint arcing.
Though 90% of no backlight cases are caused by bad LEDs, in this case it was the power supply.
Other models that may use this power supply – Haier LE42B1380 Haier LE55B1381 Viore LED42VF80 Seiki SE421TT Seiki LE-55GB2 Curtis LED4250A
When turned on, the backlights flash and the front led flashes a one blink code. According to the service manual that can be found online, it is a backlight error.
I recorded a video of the flash and from a still frame, the third row was not lighting up. The left and right strips did not come on and I found two bad LEDs on the left strip. The right strip tested fine. This TV has local dimming and though left and right strips are wired separately, they are dimmed row by row. I used Samsung 3V LEDs and the color was a bit off and they were a bit brighter.
I decided to take apart the TV a second time to move the repaired strip to the bottom of the TV and also remove a fleck of dirt trapped under the panel. Unfortunately, I cracked the panel after putting pressure on the edge when I missed a screw in the bezel. In hindsight, I should have removed the bezel completely with the TV lying flat.
For the record, part number for the strips are as follows Left CX-60S02E01-3B5Y3-0-B-523-1208-U Right CX-60S02E02-3B5Y3-0-B-523-1297-U
This TV turned on with backlight but no video. Usual suspect in this case is the tcon board though a bad main board could also cause no video. If I had sound, it would strengthen the case for the main board to be good.
The model appeared to be Canada only and there was a lot of variation in the model numbers for the ES series. Tcon part number was 35-D076725 and main board was BN94-05874R (BN97-06430L firmware).
Replacing the tcon brought the video back. I did notice the volume had been lowered to 0 which was the reason there was no sound. In this model, there is a sound effect if you scroll through the menu.
This model does have backlight issues so make sure they aren’t set to maximum or the picture mode set to Dynamic.
Backlight failure is common in most RCA models mainly because the backlight is set in the service menu. On some models, there is a Power Save picture mode which lowers the backlight but Standard and Dynamic modes typically run the backlights at 100%.
In this two year old TV, the backlights would shut off after a few seconds or minutes but would stay on for a few hours when the level was reduced but it still cut out.
Opening the TV was a bit of a challenge since the panel was taped to the bezel. There were also screws hidden under the thick foam spacers supporting the panel boards. I realized afterwards that the tv had to be assembled with the diffuser sheets and panel face down inside the bezel and the chassis should be lifted away.
Once the tv was apart, I tested all the strips with my LED tester and they all appeared good. They were probably only failing under higher current. Since I couldn’t isolate individual bad LEDs, I decided to do a full strip replacement.
There appear to be at least two different panels for this model. I initially ordered the wrong strips since I didn’t want to open up the TV again to check the part number. JL.D60081235-031AS-M (AE110475) are 12 half length strips with 8 LEDs per strip. My strips were SQY60LB (AE0110384 or AE0110383 ) which are six rows of left and right strips (8 leds per strip). Shopjimmy indicates these are used in model RLED6090.
When I put the TV back together with the new strips installed, there were some moving lines which I eventually traced to a poorly grounded tcon. I had removed the tcon to release the tabs of a standoff to lift off the reflector sheet.
The service menu for this model is accessed by SOURCE-2-5-8-0 and reducing the backlight saves it under User picture mode. It is recommended to keep the picture mode as Power Save to prevent backlight failure.
Update: After I sold the tv, the new owner inquired about turning off motion smoothing since it creates the soap opera effect when watching movies. Some models have a 120Hz or MEMC (Motion Enhancement Motion Compensation) setting in the Picture menu. Working with him, we were able to find a Film Mode in the Service Menu and turned that option on.
This model suffers from backlight failure that pops a transistor on the power supply leaving the tv dead. See post here. This tv had different symptoms with a flashing backlight and no video.
I opened up the tv and the majority of leds had burned out so I replaced them with used strips I had salvaged. With the main board unplugged, the backlights came on. With the main board plugged back in, but panel still disconnected, the tv went through the normal start up processs when turned on. I reassembled the tv and it still did not display a picture. Suspecting a bad panel, I was able to get a picture with only the right side tcon cable connected indicating a fault on the left side of the panel. I checked the left side panel board for shorted chip caps but didnt find any. Next, I tried blocking some of the left side tcon flex cable with tape (“tape cutoff method”) but that didnt work either. As a last resort, I ripped off all the side tabs on the left side of the panel and was able to get a good picture.
I’ve only done this once before on a Sharp 60 inch tv but it only lasted a month or two before the panel had other issues.
I previously repaired this model with 2 blinks by replacing some mosfets here. This one appeared dead with no standby light and it didn’t turn on. A service manual and service/training manual can be found online. Checking for standby voltage, both 12V and 3.3V were present on the main board. I also checked all the fuses and regulators and they all were good.
Searching the main board part number, I ordered one from an online tv parts supplier. When Sony main boards are replaced, the firmware needs to be updated.
Downloading the firmware from Sony’s website, I extracted the file and subfolder onto the root of a FAT32 formatted USB drive. I did have some trouble getting the firmware to update but what worked for me was turning the TV on which flashed green and amber. I then plugged the USB in and after a few minutes if flashed red and amber. Instead of rebooting, it blinked an error code. With the USB unplugged, and the tv turned on again, the tv flashed on for a second before giving me a 10 blink error code. I tried going in to the service menu, but couldn’t because of the error.
The service manual had no listing for a 10 blink code so I was stuck. I suspected that the main board had to be configured for my panel so purchased another main board from a KDL-55EX720 which uses the same panel. This model is 3D and has a higher maximum refresh rate.
When I installed the second board, the tv flashed the same 10 blink code but I didn’t need to update the firmware. Looking at the service manual for the KDL-55EX720, it had an entry for the 10 blink code – Emitter Error. The flowchart indicates to check the HEM2 board. Looking for the HEM2 board on my TV, I didn’t have one. The HEM2 board is for mounting IR LED emitters connected to the tcon used to sync with active 3D glasses. The schematic for the HEM2 board shows an EMI_FAIL pin which I assumed would trigger the 10 blink error. It is either open collector or at ground.
I ordered a HEM2 board with cable from ebay but decided to see if I could get the tv to turn on by grounding EMI_FAIL (pin 7) on the tcon board. I had to ground it before plugging in and kept on grounding it to prevent the 10 blink code from reappearing.
Multiple versions of the Sony model use the same main board and firmware. So it appears if the main board was configured for a 3D one, it will be checking for the EMI_FAIL signal and produce a 10 blink error if the board is not installed.
Most board sellers group all the boards together since they have the same part number so you will encounter this issue if the board is configured for a 3D TV and you are trying to install in an non 3D model.