Upgrade your Desktop with a SSD Drive and Windows 10 Freezing

With SSD drives dropping in price and capacities increasing, I decided to update from Windows 7 to 10 and to a SSD drive at the same time. This would allow a fresh install of the OS.  Windows 7  is nearing both end of life and end of support. By doing the install on a new SSD drive, I will still have my data and files preserved as a backup.

I picked up a Samsung EVO 860 1TB at Best Buy for $180 CAD. Amazon.ca was the same price and the Western Digital Blue 3D 1TB was a little cheaper at Amazon but was a prime exclusive.

The latest Windows 10 can be download directly from Microsoft and the installation tool can transfer it to a bootable USB drive.  Reports indicate that if you have  a valid Windows 7 or Windows 8 installation, you can still get a free upgrade.

After a fairly painless install, there was a significant improvement in the Windows boot time and I can now boot in about 15 seconds.

I downloaded PowerISO since I had to extract an  archive and it ended up installing Chromium adware.  It installed in the start up and thus was a bit tricky to remove.  I do recommend installing Malwarebytes Antimalware and paying for a yearly license.

During installation, I minimized the options that are a bit intrusive such as logging in and tracking your location.  There are other annoying features that are enabled by default such as building albums in the background with the photo app and displaying of ads on the lock screen.  These can be easily turned off with a quick google search.

I did run into a more serious problem of occasional freezing.  Googling this issue, one suggestion was to set the hard drive sleep time to Never (0 minutes) in the Advanced Power settings.  I did this but freezing still occurred.  Next suggestion was to update the SATA drivers.  I went into Device Manager but noticed my drivers were all ATA and not SATA.  Checking my motherboard’s BIOS setup, it  was configured  for Native IDE.  In 2010 when my motherboard (Gigabyte GA-880GM-UD2H) was manufactured, AHCI was a new standard not supported by Windows versions at that time.  With Windows 10, SATA drives should be set to run AHCI which is the default standard.  RAID is another option that uses a dual drive configuration for improved reliability typically used in server setups.

Fearing I needed to reinstall Windows 10 again to switch to AHCI, I found this webpage for a procedure to switch to AHCI from IDE without the need to reinstall Windows.  This procedure worked for me.  To get the command prompt in the latest Windows 10, right-click the Start menu and choose Windows Powershell (Admin).  I had to use the command lines WITHOUT the {current} instruction.

 

Philips 39PFL2608/F7 No Power

This TV had no power and the service manual can be found here

I checked fuse F602 and it was open.  The main switching transistor Q601 was shorted gate to drain.  I checked the diodes in the secondary output and one of the SB3A0H diodes was shorted as well.  With these three  parts replaced, there was still no output on the AMP+13V and P-ON+21V line.

With Q601 shorted, there would have been unexpected high voltage at the gate and components connected to it may be damaged.  I found a repair kit on ebay which gave clues to which components to check.  Probing the circuit, I found D607A (27V 500mW Zener) questionable, Q602 (2SC5334S NPN 30V 0.8A) questionable, D608 (36V Zener) shorted and R611 (0.3ohm 2W) open.  D609A (schottky diode) tested good.

Here is a parts list with Digikey substitutes.

F602 Fuse 2.5A 250V 507-1180-ND‎
Q602 IRF640 N-CH MOSFET 200V 18A IRF640NPBF-ND
D608 Zener 36V 1N4753A-TPCT-ND
R611 Res 0.3 ohm 3W PPC3W.30CT-ND
Q602 NPN 125V 0.8A BCX41TADICT-ND‎ or 45V 0.8A BCW66GLT1GOSCT-ND
D653, D655 SB3100  SB3100FSCT-ND
D607A Zener 27V SM TFZVTR27BCT-ND (can substitute leaded axial part and place in D607)

With all these parts replaced, the TV powered up.  The heatsinking for Q602 is inadequate and probably caused the initial failure.

 

LG 55U8500 Won’t Turn On

This TV wouldn’t turn on but the front LED would blink once when the power button was pressed.  Typically if you have a front LED (indicating you have standby voltage) and the TV doesn’t power up, it is a main board issue.  I probed the PS_ON and DRV_ON signals on the main connector and didn’t detect a DRV_ON signal so I ordered a replacement main board.  When I installed the replacement board, it behaved exactly the same way.  I ordered a used power supply board next and it was pretty inexpensive at under $20 USD shipped.  When I plugged it in, I noticed LEDs light up on the main board which weren’t on before and the TV powered up.

I should have done a more comprehensive job of checking power supply voltages before concluding the main board was bad.  Luckily the seller takes returns so I will ship it back and take the hit on shipping charges.

Samsung UN55C6400RF No Power

Model UN55C6400 UN55C6400RF UN55C6400RFXZC

This TV did not turn on and would click every few seconds.

This youtube video indicates to check for shorts on transistors for the LED drivers on the power supply board.

Power supply board is BN44-00358B.  Schematic is available online here

There are 4 transistors Q9101, Q9104, Q9201 & Q9204 and I found one shorted and previously replaced. I ordered replacements on Digikey part#FQU5N40TU-ND (Mosfet N-CH 400V 3.4A Ipak) and replaced all four proactively.

This board may also have an issue with blown fuses which means you should check QP801, QP802 and CP808 for shorts.

After replacing the transistors, the TV powered up but one side was dim.  This was traced to loose connections on the LED connector.

Update:  The TV came back with a dim side again which I suspected was a power supply fault.  I ended up buying a compatible substitute board from the Chinese company buyqual.com which ended up fixing the problem.

Sony KDL-55EX620 Won’t Turn On 2 Blinks

This TV was flashing a 2 blink code which is a power supply error.

A service and training manual can be found here.

Power supply board part number is APS-299 (1-474-303-11 147430311).  Searching on ebay found repair services and repair kits for this board.

Posts on badcaps indicated potential shorted transistors Q6101, Q6102 and open resistor R6540.  When i tested these parts, all three had failed.

Q6101 and Q6102 are shown in the schematic as TK5A50D.  These are 500V, 5A N-Channel MOSFETS.  I had FDPF7N50U (Digikey #FDPF7N50U-G-ND) spares from a previous repair.  R6540 is listed as a 0.1 ohm 1/2W resistor and I temporarily substituted the part with a 0.47 ohm 1/2W fusible resistor I also had.  Digikey substitute would be 0.1DMCT-ND (0.1 ohm, 2W fusible).

With these 3 components replaced, the TV powered up.  This failure is similar to a previous repair on a Sony KDL-46EX400  here.

This video describes repair of a 2 blink code on a KDL-46EX523.  The boards are very similar but the designators and transistors are different.

 

LG 47LM4600 Turns On No Backlight

The front standby LED was on and would turn off and on when the power button was pressed but there was no backlight and no sound.

Probing the power supply connector, PWR_ON and DRV_ON signals were being sent from the main board but there were no voltages on the LED connector or secondary voltages like 12V.  Checking the big main filter capacitor across the leads, the PFC circuit was not boosting up to the expected 390VDC.  Power supply part number is EAY62512701.

Posts on badcaps suggested checking D607, C603, Q601 and Q602.  I found D607 shorted while the other parts testing good.  I ordered a replacement for MUR460AX (600V, 4A axial leaded diode) from Digkey part #MUR460GOS-ND

Normally, the diode in this application is a TO-220 package which can be mounted on a heatsink for better heat dissipation.  When I installed the new part, I floated it above the board to allow for more airflow around it.

With D607 replaced, the TV powered up with backlight coming on.  The interior of the TV had black dust on the power supply board and back of the TV and I confirmed that the owner was a heavy smoker.  There was also some smoke residue on the bottom corners of the TV.

 

Panasonic TC-L32C22 Won’t Turn On

This TV attempted to turn on but there was no backlight.  It was probably flashing a diagnostic blink code (possibly 10 blinks) but the front LED was out.

A service manual with all schematics is downloadable from here.  Power supply part number is TNPA5123CA.

Checking the voltages at the power supply connector, standby voltages at TUNER6V and VSB were present and stable at 6VDC.  With the power button pressed, 6V appears at RELAY and 2.3V on TV_SUB_ON which turns on the PFC circuit supplying DTV12V and 17V and 32V.  These voltages drop when turned on indicating an error condition was causing a shutdown.

Checking the main filter capacitor, I measured 390VDC on it when the TV was briefly on.   To force the power supply to stay on, I disconnected the connector to the main board and applied 6V to the RELAY pin and used a 10K external resistor from VSB to TV_SUB_ON.  With the PS on, the 390VDC stayed on but DTV12V and 17V was still shutting down.  This lead me to suspect IC7301 (SSC9512).  I measured  R7303, R7305 and R7306 by lifting one leg up.  R7306 measured a bit high – 1.3M instead of 1M so I replaced it and the TV powered up.

I still had the problem of no front LED and this was traced to a broken connector on the cable connecting to the main board.  I had to test and wire all the lines from the IR/LED board to test points on the main board  to bypass any bad connections.

Element ELEFT407 Won’t Turn On Has Standby Light

This TV had a standby light but wouldn’t turn on.  I tried freeze spray on the eeprom (UF1) but it didn’t work.  I still suspected eeprom failure however.

The TV uses the same chassis and all-in-one board from many budget TV brands like RCA,  Westinghouse, and Emerson.  I have also seen this chassis on a newer LG TV.

Shopjimmy indicates there are two different main boards with two incompatible eeproms.  One is for serial numbers starting with G1400 and the other is for J1400.  I checked ebay and there was a seller selling preprogrammed eeproms for $10 USD vs $15 USD that shopjimmy was charging.  I am still waiting for my CH341A programmer so I ordered the cheaper one.

Once installed, the TV powered up.

Samsung UN46F6300AF Won’t Turn On Dark Areas

Model UN46F6300 UN46F6300AF UN46F6300AFXZC

Power supply board number BN44-00611D

This TV would attempt to turn on but there was no picture or backlights, just a blinking front LED.  With the back panel off, I disconnected the cable between the main and power supply boards and the backlights did not come on.  Suspecting bad LED backlights, I carefully took the LCD panel off and tested all the LED strips with my LED tester.  All the strips tested good.  Measuring the PFC voltage across the leads of the big capacitor, I was only getting 270V instead of the expected 390VDC.  I stumbled on a post on badcaps indicating a low VCC on ICP801 caused by a high RS802 is a suspect for low PFC voltage.  Measuring RS802, it was much higher than the expected 10 ohm value so I replaced it with an 0805 resistor I had.  With the new resistor, the TV powered up.  However, the top part of the screen was dark and it looked like the top strips weren’t getting any power.  I found poor connectivity on the connector from the strips to the main board and had to bypass the connector on several pins.  With this last fix, the TV powered up with all the backlights running.  I did find the connector on the LED side  a bit flakey as well and the backlights went out when I pushed on it.

Emerson LF391EM4 No Power No Standby

This TV was dead with no standby light and no power.  A service manual is available for download here.

The power supply board has jumpers as test points.  I measured 20VDC P-ON+21V and 0V on AMP+13V.  AMP+13V provides power to the main board.  There is a FET which could short and blow a fuse but the 20VDC reading indicates the fuse is ok.  Checking the resistance of AMP+13V to GND with the board alone, I measured a short.

In the service manual, there is a flowchart for this line.  AMP+13V is not output.  No-> Check D653, D655, C654, C655, C668 and their periphery circuit. Repair it if defective.

Pulled off C654 and C655 and they both tested good.  I lifted one leg of both of the diodes and D653 was shorted.  The part number is SB3A0BH which is a 100V, 3A Schottky diode.  Equivalent substitute at Digikey is SB3100 (641-1418-1-ND).

I replaced both diodes and TV powered up.  Luckily, there was no damage to other parts when the diode shorted.