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Samsung UN46H5203AF Backlights Dim

Model UN46H5203 UN46H5203AF UN46H5203AFXZA

This TV turned on but the backlights were very dim. Disconnecting the cable from the main board to the power supply board had the backlight light up but at the same dimness. Probing the connector to the LED strips with an LED tester got very low voltage and unusual readings. Searching the power supply part number BN44-00771A on Shopjimmy got a warning that this model was prone to LED backlight failure.

With the TV apart, I could test the strips directly and over 50% of the LEDs had failed. Some were visibly black. I have found new replacement strips on Aliexpress (search 2013SVS46) which have been ordered.

With Samsung TVs, the power supply appears to not shut down the backlight when there is a LED failure unlike with LG TVs. This appears to lead to a higher number of LED failures since people will continue using their TVs. Hopefully, there is no damage to the power supply board with so many shorted LEDs.

I previously had to do a full backlight replacement on model UN50EH5300F with one or two LEDs out on every strip.

Update: The strips came in and TV has been repaired. I checked the screen settings and the TV had been running in Dynamic mode which runs the backlights at maximum brightness. There is an option in the settings to apply the picture settings to all sources when I reduced the backlight level to 12.

The LED strips I purchased from Aliexpress were from seller KCLCD Store and the brand is Rzconne. It was shipped using tracked epacket.

Samsung UN40F5500 Doesn’t Turn On No Backlight

Model UN40F5500 UN40F5500AF UN40F5500AFXZC

When the power button is pushed, the front LED blinks but the TV doesn’t turn on. Unplugging the main board from the power supply, the backlight flickers. Checking the strips with an LED tester, they all test good.

The voltage across the leads on the big main capacitor go the expected 390VDC. Checking other voltages, B5V was at 5.2V but B13V was unstable drifting around 11V +/- 1VDC. Since B13V supplies the LED driver IC, this unstable voltage was causing the flickering.

The power supply board was BN44-00645D and I found a schematic for
BN44-00645A. The suffix is usually a different revision but compatible part number.

Checking the components around the unstable part of the circuit, the capacitors all tested good.

Since I couldn’t find the fault, I ended buying a replacement board on Aliexpress. With the new board installed, the TV powered up.

LG LN Series Stand Screws

I have a stand for a 50LN5750 that was missing screws from the base to the upper support. The manual describes them as P4 x 25mm. They are actually pan head Phillips self tapping screws (4mm diameter). LG part number appears to be FAB31740201 and a part site wanted a whopping $5 each with $10 shipping. Found some good suspects on Ebay shipped from China (search M4x25mm self tapping) but ended up finding some locally from a LG dealer. In a pinch, the closest imperial screw is a #10 – 1″ which is 4.8mm diameter and the thread pitch is a little wider. The screws to mount the stand to the TV are standard metric machine screws and the part numbers can usually be found in the user manual.

Samsung S27D590 Doesn’t Turn On No Backlight

Model numbers LS27D590 LS27D590P S27D590P

Got this monitor in which didn’t turn on.  It uses an external AC power supply as most LED monitors.  The TV has only one main board inside and I was able to find a used on on ebay.  Part number BN94-07215A.

When the replacement arrived, the monitor behaved exactly the same and didn’t turn on.  I then noticed the connector to the LED backlight had broken off and was not making contact to the edge lit strip.  I disassembled the panel down to the strip but improperly mounted the connector back and overworked the solder pads.  During testing, something shorted on the main board as well and I had burning component smell from it.

There is a small blue led in the bottom right corner and it can be configured to be on with the monitor on or in standby. If you don’t know the current setting, it can be confusing to determine if the monitor is on or off if the backlight doesn’t come on.

Since I had the second main board, I was able to find a replacement edge lit strip on Aliexpress.

Once installed, the monitor worked with everything put back together and I am able to upgrade from my reliable 22″ Samsung LED monitor.  It would be nice to have a 1440p or 4K monitor since the 27″ just gives bigger pixels at 1920×1080 resolution.

Samsung UN55ES6100 No Backlight

Model UN55ES6100 UN55ES6100F UN55ES6100FXZC

This TV turned on but had no backlight.  The owner indicated the TV was set to dynamic mode which cranks the backlight level to maximum.

With the TV opened up, visible damage was found on several LEDs on the left strip.  The right strip tested good with an LED tester.  Searching the part number 2012SVS55 7032NNB LEFT76 2D (hidden beneath a covering label) found a similar part with a 3D suffix and a 10 pin connector.  The 2D version uses a 6 pin connector and I wasn’t able to find this version online.  I did have 3D strips salvaged from another TV.  With the 6 pin connector, only 3 pins are used and the entire strip can be lit by applying power across pins 1 or 2 and pin 5.  The strip has 76 LEDs wired as 4 separate banks of 19 LEDs.  Two banks are wired in series and these in turn are wired in parallel giving approximately 114V (38 x 3V) drop across the entire strip.

The 10 pin header had the following pinout

1 – Bank1-
2 – Bank1-
3 – Bank1+
4 – Bank2-
5 – Bank2+
6 – Bank3-
7 – Bank3+
8 – Bank4-
9 – Bank4+
10 – Bank4+

Wires going to the left strip were black (-), black (-) and white (+).  To create a single strip, I shorted pin 3 to pin 4, shorted pin 7 to pin 8 and wired black wire to pin 1, black wire to pin 6 and white wire to pin 10.  If I kept the original cable to the 10 pin LED strip, it would have made wiring easier.

Another option would have been to replace the LEDs themselves but my reflow station was melting them and a hot plate may be needed to replace them.  They are surface mount and appear to be part TS731A (lots of sellers on Aliexpress).

With the TV assembled, I did notice some mistakes I made during reassembly.  I left some finger prints on the clear plastic panel which were visible on the screen if the image was clear and light.  I also had tore edges of the reflector white backing paper behind the plastic panel.  I had taped the torn pieces back up but it created some bright spots on the edge of the screen.

For disassembly instruction on Samsung edge-lit TV’s, see this post.


Upgrade your Desktop with a SSD Drive and Windows 10 Freezing

With SSD drives dropping in price and capacities increasing, I decided to update from Windows 7 to 10 and to a SSD drive at the same time. This would allow a fresh install of the OS.  Windows 7  is nearing both end of life and end of support. By doing the install on a new SSD drive, I will still have my data and files preserved as a backup.

I picked up a Samsung EVO 860 1TB at Best Buy for $180 CAD. Amazon.ca was the same price and the Western Digital Blue 3D 1TB was a little cheaper at Amazon but was a prime exclusive.

The latest Windows 10 can be download directly from Microsoft and the installation tool can transfer it to a bootable USB drive.  Reports indicate that if you have  a valid Windows 7 or Windows 8 installation, you can still get a free upgrade.

After a fairly painless install, there was a significant improvement in the Windows boot time and I can now boot in about 15 seconds.

I downloaded PowerISO since I had to extract an  archive and it ended up installing Chromium adware.  It installed in the start up and thus was a bit tricky to remove.  I do recommend installing Malwarebytes Antimalware and paying for a yearly license.

During installation, I minimized the options that are a bit intrusive such as logging in and tracking your location.  There are other annoying features that are enabled by default such as building albums in the background with the photo app and displaying of ads on the lock screen.  These can be easily turned off with a quick google search.

I did run into a more serious problem of occasional freezing.  Googling this issue, one suggestion was to set the hard drive sleep time to Never (0 minutes) in the Advanced Power settings.  I did this but freezing still occurred.  Next suggestion was to update the SATA drivers.  I went into Device Manager but noticed my drivers were all ATA and not SATA.  Checking my motherboard’s BIOS setup, it  was configured  for Native IDE.  In 2010 when my motherboard (Gigabyte GA-880GM-UD2H) was manufactured, AHCI was a new standard not supported by Windows versions at that time.  With Windows 10, SATA drives should be set to run AHCI which is the default standard.  RAID is another option that uses a dual drive configuration for improved reliability typically used in server setups.

Fearing I needed to reinstall Windows 10 again to switch to AHCI, I found this webpage for a procedure to switch to AHCI from IDE without the need to reinstall Windows.  This procedure worked for me.  To get the command prompt in the latest Windows 10, right-click the Start menu and choose Windows Powershell (Admin).  I had to use the command lines WITHOUT the {current} instruction.

 

Philips 39PFL2608/F7 No Power

This TV had no power and the service manual can be found here

I checked fuse F602 and it was open.  The main switching transistor Q601 was shorted gate to drain.  I checked the diodes in the secondary output and one of the SB3A0H diodes was shorted as well.  With these three  parts replaced, there was still no output on the AMP+13V and P-ON+21V line.

With Q601 shorted, there would have been unexpected high voltage at the gate and components connected to it may be damaged.  I found a repair kit on ebay which gave clues to which components to check.  Probing the circuit, I found D607A (27V 500mW Zener) questionable, Q602 (2SC5334S NPN 30V 0.8A) questionable, D608 (36V Zener) shorted and R611 (0.3ohm 2W) open.  D609A (schottky diode) tested good.

Here is a parts list with Digikey substitutes.

F602 Fuse 2.5A 250V 507-1180-ND‎
Q601 IRF640 N-CH MOSFET 200V 18A IRF640NPBF-NDD TK10A50D N-CH 500V 10A insulated
D608 Zener 36V 1N4753A-TPCT-ND
R611 Res 0.3 ohm 3W PPC3W.30CT-ND
Q602 NPN 125V 0.8A BCX41TADICT-ND‎ or 45V 0.8A BCW66GLT1GOSCT-ND
D653, D655 SB3100  SB3100FSCT-ND
D607A Zener 27V SM TFZVTR27BCT-ND (can substitute leaded axial part and place in D607)

With all these parts replaced, the TV powered up.  The heatsinking for Q602 is inadequate and probably caused the initial failure.

Update – Got another one of these models in using the same power board.  Model 39PFL2708/F7.  Fuse was blown and AMP+13V measured a short.  D655/D653 was shorted, Q601 shorted (D-S short, G-D and G-S meaured 60 ohms), R611 high resistance and D608 bad.  D607A and Q602 appeared ok.

The substitute listed for Q601 is incorrect.  Proper spec in 500V and 10A and case should be insulated TO-220F,

LG 55U8500 Won’t Turn On

This TV wouldn’t turn on but the front LED would blink once when the power button was pressed.  Typically if you have a front LED (indicating you have standby voltage) and the TV doesn’t power up, it is a main board issue.  I probed the PS_ON and DRV_ON signals on the main connector and didn’t detect a DRV_ON signal so I ordered a replacement main board.  When I installed the replacement board, it behaved exactly the same way.  I ordered a used power supply board next and it was pretty inexpensive at under $20 USD shipped.  When I plugged it in, I noticed LEDs light up on the main board which weren’t on before and the TV powered up.

I should have done a more comprehensive job of checking power supply voltages before concluding the main board was bad.  Luckily the seller takes returns so I will ship it back and take the hit on shipping charges.

Samsung UN55C6400RF No Power

Model UN55C6400 UN55C6400RF UN55C6400RFXZC

This TV did not turn on and would click every few seconds.

This youtube video indicates to check for shorts on transistors for the LED drivers on the power supply board.

Power supply board is BN44-00358B.  Schematic is available online here

There are 4 transistors Q9101, Q9104, Q9201 & Q9204 and I found one shorted and previously replaced. I ordered replacements on Digikey part#FQU5N40TU-ND (Mosfet N-CH 400V 3.4A Ipak) and replaced all four proactively.

This board may also have an issue with blown fuses which means you should check QP801, QP802 and CP808 for shorts.

After replacing the transistors, the TV powered up but one side was dim.  This was traced to loose connections on the LED connector.

Update:  The TV came back with a dim side again which I suspected was a power supply fault.  I ended up buying a compatible substitute board from the Chinese company buyqual.com which ended up fixing the problem.

Sony KDL-55EX620 Won’t Turn On 2 Blinks

This TV was flashing a 2 blink code which is a power supply error.

A service and training manual can be found here.

Power supply board part number is APS-299 (1-474-303-11 147430311).  Searching on ebay found repair services and repair kits for this board.

Posts on badcaps indicated potential shorted transistors Q6101, Q6102 and open resistor R6540.  When i tested these parts, all three had failed.

Q6101 and Q6102 are shown in the schematic as TK5A50D.  These are 500V, 5A N-Channel MOSFETS.  I had FDPF7N50U (Digikey #FDPF7N50U-G-ND) spares from a previous repair.  R6540 is listed as a 0.1 ohm 1/2W resistor and I temporarily substituted the part with a 0.47 ohm 1/2W fusible resistor I also had.  Digikey substitute would be 0.1DMCT-ND (0.1 ohm, 2W fusible).

With these 3 components replaced, the TV powered up.  This failure is similar to a previous repair on a Sony KDL-46EX400  here.

This video describes repair of a 2 blink code on a KDL-46EX523.  The boards are very similar but the designators and transistors are different.