When plugged in, the TV squealed and wouldn’t turn on. Squealing is a sign of a shorted output on the transformer.
The service manual for this model can be found with a quick google search.
Checking the power supply board, the fuse was not blown and none of the output diodes on the AMP+13V and P-ON+21V lines were shorted. The squealing stopped when the cable from the power supply to the main board was disconnected. Measuring the resistance of the P-ON+21V line, it was 8 ohms indicating a short on the main board.
The schematic shows the P-ON+21V is input to five regulators on the main board that have decoupling capacitors for each one. The 4.7uF 0805 ones could potentially short. You will need to remove C3943, C3645, C3616, C3674 and C3625 to determine which one is shorted. It is advised to replace all of them. Digikey part would be 1276-6722-1-ND (4.7uF 35V X5R 0805)
The LG LN series is probably the most common model I perform LED backlight repair and replacement on. Symptom is typically the backlights flashing momentarily on power up or plug in before an error is detected causing the backlights to shut down.
In most cases, the panels use strips labelled L1 & R1 and L2 & R2 with 3 black dots and thin lenses and the LED themselves can be replaced with 3V 2835 ones.
I recently encountered a 50LN5310 with a slightly different panel and LED strips. Shopjimmy indicates there are 2 different strips that could be used on this model. On disassembly, the screws for the metal bezel holding the panel in place were different and the side tabs on the panel were taped to the plastic bezel holding the diffusers. The LED strips used the thick style lenses and measuring the LEDs themselves indicated they were the standard LG 3V 2835 type. If you try to remove a strip, you will likely pop off the lenses so it is recommended to replace the LED with the strip attached to the chassis.
On the TV I worked on, many of the lenses were loose and ready to fall off. It is recommended to keep the exact same orientation and have the lens perfectly centered on the LED when gluing it back on. I have been using 5 second fix glue recently since you can adjust the lens and check it before curing it with the UV light. The glue is fairly cheap on ebay shipped from China. If the lens is not perfectly centered, it could create bright spots on the screen. If the lens falls off, it will create another bright spot.
This TV would show the power up logo for about 10 seconds before shutting off. Normally, the logo shows for a couple of seconds before turning on. With backlight failures, the logo flashes briefly before the backlight shuts down.
TV’s not booting or stuck on the logo is usually a symptom of bad or corrupt firmware or a bad eeprom. If the firmware can not be reloaded, the only option is to replace the main board.
This model appears to be a Canadian model and used main boards are very scarce and expensive. A tip on badcaps indicated a 55LB6100 main board should work.
My exact model was 55LB5800-UG.ACCWLJR part# EBT63056403 and I bought a main board from 55LB6100-UG.BUSWLJR part# EBT62902106 ($45 USD). It fit and worked perfectly.
Make sure the date/time is correct. Set the date/time under Menu->System->Time->Clock
Make sure DNS is correct. I would try to go to Netflix.com in the web browser to verify it is working. If it doesn’t connect, check the setting under Network->Network Status. Change the DNS to manual and set to 184.108.40.206
Reset the Smart Hub. In the Smart Hub screen, press Tools->Settings->Reset. Pin is 0000.
Reinstall Netflix app. Under the Smart Hub and Netflix selected, press Tools->Reinstall.
What finally worked for me was signing out of Netflix with the instructions in the Netflix help page. On the error screen, press Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, Up, Up, Up, Up A deactivation screen should come up. If it doesn’t, try again. Click on the option to Deactivate. You need to use this combination to sign out of Netflix even when it is working. https://help.netflix.com/en/node/57687
I picked up this Vizio with a dim screen and I was pretty sure it needed new backlights. With a TV that big and still valuable, I decided to do a full replacement with new strips from Shopjimmy. Shopjimmy has a video for this repair but there are some corrections needed in their video.
There are clips holding the back cover in place and you will need a putty knife to push them in to release the back cover
The panel is held in place by brackets and these are on all four sides. I initially missed the ones on the sides.
I removed the diffuser sheets together with the white plastic bezel and tried to keep it all together to simplify disassembly.
The white plastic rivets holding down the reflector sheet and strips can be removed from the top with a putty knife. The standoffs don’t need to be removed.
There are strips of double side tape holding down the reflector sheet. You will need work carefully to not damage the sheet too much.
It appears each strip is individually powered for local dimming. I only found 9 shorted LEDs out of 96 so they could have been repaired. 9 out of 12 strip had one bad LED. It appears the whole strip is shut down if there is a shorted LED on one.
When replacing the panel there is some black tape at the top. Make sure it in on the outside of the plastic bezel or else it might fold itself in to the viewing area.
There also side tabs that are covered by tape. Make sure they are covered again during assembly.
I have recently gotten a hold of several Samsung TVs with bad backlights. Unlike LG TVs which shut down the backlight if failures are detected, Samsungs will continue to run leading to failure of almost every LED. Damage to the power supply could also occur. For most Samsung TVs, disconnecting the cable from the main board to the power supply board should light up the backlights. Here is a list of models and the corresponding LED strip part numbers I have encountered .
UN40EH5300FXZC, UN40H5203AFXZC – both use a 3 strip setup with 2 angled strips and 1 straight strip. Part numbers LM41-00001V/ LM41-00001W or D3GE-400SMA-R2/ D3GE-400SMB-R2
UN46H5203AFXZA, UN46EH5300FXZC – LM41-00001X / LM41-00001Y or D3GE-460SMB-R1 / D3GE-460SMA-R2 or BN96-28769A / BN96-28768A I have encountered damage to power supply BN44-00771A (traced to a bad diode D9801C) on one TV.
UN50EH5300FXZC – D3GE-500SMA-R3 / D3GE-500SMB-R2
UN55FH6030FXZC – BN96-28772A / LM41-00001P
UN60ES8000FXZC – Edge lit 10 pin connector wired in 4 banks of 22 LEDs (88 total per side). Should measure around 67V per bank with LED tester. 2012SVS60 7032NNB 3D LEFT88 RIGHT88
I’m on my second hot water tank in my house and it is at the 9yr old mark. When I replaced it last, I paid for the longest warranty tank since installation costs have gone up over the years. Hot water tanks will eventually rust out and leak.
Watching This Old House, there was a segment on extending the life of your hot water tank by replacing the anode rod. This part prevents your tank from rusting prematurely and should be inspected and replaced.
I was able to purchase an anode rod at Lowes. Removing the old anode rod was difficult since it was very tight and I had limited space to work in. Luckily, I had a friend with an impact wrench and compressor and it was needed to get the old rod out. I included a pic of what the old rod looks like after 9 yrs in Metro Vancouver water.
I had to get my starter replaced under warranty from my mechanic but that evening when I got home, the check engine light came on. I have a Fixd OBD2 so I connected to find out the error code was P1078 – Intake Manifold Runner Control System Malfunction High RPM. Since replacing the starter involves removing the intake manifold, I suspected a loose or unconnected connector. Error description available here https://www.autocodes.com/p1078_acura.html
Poking around the intake manifold valve at the left side of the engine cover, I found one of the connectors in front of the valve wasn’t pushed in all the way. The connector can be seen in this youtube video at the 1:03 mark.
I plugged the ODB2 sensor, revved up the engine past 5000 rpm and the error had cleared.
I had recently flew to Bangkok with China Eastern through Nanjing Airport. Though a visa is typically required to enter China (10 yr visas are available), a visa free transit policy was introduced a few years ago offering up to 144 hours depending on the city. See this link.
I emailed China Eastern to confirm Nanjing Lukou was visa free and was sent this link confirming visa free transit is available.
Nanjing Lukou NKG is a large airport but not very busy for it’s size. A sign indicates it does not have a transit area. Typically, airports will have a way to go from the arrival area directly to the departure area with screening for transit passengers.
On arrival, you need to indicate you are transitting without a visa to the customs officer. You do not need to fill out any paperwork and the officer will collect your passport and direct you to the waiting area with the other transitting passengers from your flight.
If you have a visa, you need to fill out a departure (yellow) form. If you want to leave the airport through the 144 hr visa free transit, you also need to fill out a blue form to apply for it.
Once all the passengers from your flight are processed, your group will be lead to pick up your luggage from baggage claim and then head upstairs to recheck your luggage back in. They will also print your boarding passes at this time. You will then be lead as a group to departures immigration where they will return your passport and you can go through security to the departures area. You still need to fill out a yellow departure form. Though the staff speak English, they do have difficulty pronouncing names so someone should volunteer to help them read off names.
There aren’t a lot of food options post-security. Just a noodle restaurant (accepts Visa credit card) and a Subway.
Update: As a bonus, I got mileage credit on Delta Skymiles because China Eastern is a partner airline. They only gave credit on half the flights so I had to make a request for the missing mileage.
This TV attempted to turn on (the front LED would flash) but there was no backlight. With the main board cable disconnected from the power supply board, the backlights came on confirming the power supply and backlights were good. This test indicated the problem was with the main board. Searching the part number BN94-05113J on ebay found a few expensive used boards and one repair service indicating the board suffers from BGA connection failures on the main processor. Shopjimmy had a long list of substitute boards and I was able to find a more reasonably priced one searching the BN97-06022A part number. This board part number was BN94-05038B and was from the 40″ version of this TV UN40D6000SF.
With the new board installed, the TV turned on and also didn’t need anything changed in the service menu.
This model didn’t have built in wifi (requires dongle or wired ethernet) and youtube is no longer supported.