My friend’s RSX was getting OBD codes P0137 , P0138 and P0139. All three codes are for the O2 sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2) but there are two sensors for the RSX. It is a bit confusing to determine which sensor needs to be replaced and which sensor is upstream or downstream.
This webpage from Denso explains the banks and sensors. Click the Performance tab. With a straight four engine, there is only one bank on the RSX. Sensor 1 is upstream and located before the catalytic converter and also called the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor. Sensor 2 is downstream and after the catalytic converter.
Honda OEM sensors are made by Denso so it would be cheaper to get a Denso sensor. Searching the part number on Denso yields the following part numbers.
234-9004 upstream sensor (non Type S, manual) – Acura part 36531-PND-A01 234-4122 downstream sensor (non Type S) – Acura part 36532-PND-A01
You can find these parts on Amazon both US and Canada.
The service manual describes sensor 1 as primary and sensor 2 as secondary.
My friend’s RSX blower wasn’t working so he brought it by for me to help him debug it. The fuses appeared good and once in a while it would start up for a few seconds. Searching youtube, I found the following video which points to the culprit as a thermal cutoff.
The video links to this webpage with instructions on replacing the thermal fuse in the power transistor module.
Measuring the resistance across the fuse indicated it had opened. Checking the cabin filters, they were very dirty and would have caused the overheating in the module with the airflow restricted. The service manual recommends replacing the cabin filters every 2 years or 48000km.
The part number for the module is 79330S6M941 and it can be found on ebay for around $15 USD.
The Digikey part referenced in the link to replace the thermal fuse is obsolete and no longer available. Digikey part 317-1134-ND appears to be a close substitute and available if you want to just replace the thermal fuse. The leads are a bit thicker and won’t fit through the old holes so you need to bend it inside the pcb to make contact with the top of the circuit board.
I had previously encountered this model with failed backlights. This TV had different symptoms and the backlights were working but with no video. The usual suspect when there is backlight and sound but no video is the tcon board. The TV appeared previously repaired since the main board was from the 65″ version of the this TV. I still had the other TV so tested the 65″ main board on it and it was working fine. I couldn’t swap tcon boards since the panels were different even though it was the same model.
Searching the tcon part number BN96-27249A found repair kits indicating it had a common fault. Used boards were actually cheaper than the repair kit and only $12 USD from Electroparts online.
The replacement tcon worked and fixed the TV.
The backlights appeared good. I checked the backlight setting and it was in standard mode with a default level of 12/20 on all inputs. Though not the problem in this tv, It does appear running the backlights at 100% is what causes failure.
This TV responded to the power button and attempted to turn on but there was no backlight. Checking the signals at the power connector, I measured 19V at the 12V pins and 3.6V at the PS-ON pin but BL-ON wasn’t getting a signal so the main board was suspect.
Checking shopjimmy, they sell an eeprom for the main board with the symptom no backlights. They have a video showing the symptom on a similar model P502UI-B1
Ordered the eeprom but the problem was still there. Luckily, new main boards were available for $30 USD from Electroparts online through their ebay store. I have had a good experience from Electroparts since they had free returns and provided USPS labels.
After main board replacement, the TV turned on with backlight. There were also LEDs on the main board that lit up. A post on badcaps for P502UI-B1 indicates BGA failures on the main processor are the suspect and not the eeprom. Usually with eeprom failures, the tv doesn’t respond to the power button.
My shed fluorescent tube light has always been problematic because the bulbs don’t work well in low temperatures. With most of my home lighting replaced with LED, I found ballast-free LED bulbs at Home Depot from Toggled. They need to be ordered online but can be picked up for free at the store.
Checking the video, the bulbs are directly wired to the AC so the ballast can be removed. There is a small issue if your lamp holders are shunted (shorted together at the lamp holder end). Instant-start ballasts are likely to be shunted. If they are, they include replacement non shunted holders.
After ordering, they took about a week to arrive. Bulbs are fairly light since they are plastic. Installation was very easy. You only need to supply AC to one end of the lamp holder. The opposite side is not used so the wires can be cut at that end.
Disposing of the old ballast gets a bit tricky. Older ballasts can contain PCBs which are considered hazardous waste. To determine if your ballast contains PCB. Check this link. Mine had a 1972 date code and ballasts manufactured earlier than 1980 are likely to contain PCBs.
For disposal, I tried to follow the instruction in this link for BC residents. I had trouble registering as a hazardous waste generator and emailed productcare recycling. I was told I didn’t need to register for 2 or less ballasts and they would mail me a box to ship it for disposal. I also had another option to take it to the facility at Tilbury but would need to make an appointment.
Update: A courier in a 5 ton truck delivered an empty box and a waybill. I packaged the ballast in the heavy duty Ziploc bag provided and had to call the courier back to pick it up. They do make things way more complicated and inefficient than needed.
keywords: fluorescent ballast disposal Vancouver BC
When plugged in, the TV squealed and wouldn’t turn on. Squealing is a sign of a shorted output on the transformer.
The service manual for this model can be found with a quick google search.
Checking the power supply board, the fuse was not blown and none of the output diodes on the AMP+13V and P-ON+21V lines were shorted. The squealing stopped when the cable from the power supply to the main board was disconnected. Measuring the resistance of the P-ON+21V line, it was 8 ohms indicating a short on the main board.
The schematic shows the P-ON+21V is input to five regulators on the main board that have decoupling capacitors for each one. The 4.7uF 0805 ones could potentially short. You will need to remove C3943, C3645, C3616, C3674 and C3625 to determine which one is shorted. It is advised to replace all of them. Digikey part would be 1276-6722-1-ND (4.7uF 35V X5R 0805)
The LG LN series is probably the most common model I perform LED backlight repair and replacement on. Symptom is typically the backlights flashing momentarily on power up or plug in before an error is detected causing the backlights to shut down.
In most cases, the panels use strips labelled L1 & R1 and L2 & R2 with 3 black dots and thin lenses and the LED themselves can be replaced with 3V 2835 ones.
I recently encountered a 50LN5310 with a slightly different panel and LED strips. Shopjimmy indicates there are 2 different strips that could be used on this model. On disassembly, the screws for the metal bezel holding the panel in place were different and the side tabs on the panel were taped to the plastic bezel holding the diffusers. The LED strips used the thick style lenses and measuring the LEDs themselves indicated they were the standard LG 3V 2835 type. If you try to remove a strip, you will likely pop off the lenses so it is recommended to replace the LED with the strip attached to the chassis.
On the TV I worked on, many of the lenses were loose and ready to fall off. It is recommended to keep the exact same orientation and have the lens perfectly centered on the LED when gluing it back on. I have been using 5 second fix glue recently since you can adjust the lens and check it before curing it with the UV light. The glue is fairly cheap on ebay shipped from China. If the lens is not perfectly centered, it could create bright spots on the screen. If the lens falls off, it will create another bright spot.
This TV would show the power up logo for about 10 seconds before shutting off. Normally, the logo shows for a couple of seconds before turning on. With backlight failures, the logo flashes briefly before the backlight shuts down.
TV’s not booting or stuck on the logo is usually a symptom of bad or corrupt firmware or a bad eeprom. If the firmware can not be reloaded, the only option is to replace the main board.
This model appears to be a Canadian model and used main boards are very scarce and expensive. A tip on badcaps indicated a 55LB6100 main board should work.
My exact model was 55LB5800-UG.ACCWLJR part# EBT63056403 and I bought a main board from 55LB6100-UG.BUSWLJR part# EBT62902106 ($45 USD). It fit and worked perfectly.
Make sure the date/time is correct. Set the date/time under Menu->System->Time->Clock
Make sure DNS is correct. I would try to go to Netflix.com in the web browser to verify it is working. If it doesn’t connect, check the setting under Network->Network Status. Change the DNS to manual and set to 126.96.36.199
Reset the Smart Hub. In the Smart Hub screen, press Tools->Settings->Reset. Pin is 0000.
Reinstall Netflix app. Under the Smart Hub and Netflix selected, press Tools->Reinstall.
What finally worked for me was signing out of Netflix with the instructions in the Netflix help page. On the error screen, press Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, Up, Up, Up, Up A deactivation screen should come up. If it doesn’t, try again. Click on the option to Deactivate. You need to use this combination to sign out of Netflix even when it is working. https://help.netflix.com/en/node/57687
I picked up this Vizio with a dim screen and I was pretty sure it needed new backlights. With a TV that big and still valuable, I decided to do a full replacement with new strips from Shopjimmy. Shopjimmy has a video for this repair but there are some corrections needed in their video.
There are clips holding the back cover in place and you will need a putty knife to push them in to release the back cover
The panel is held in place by brackets and these are on all four sides. I initially missed the ones on the sides.
I removed the diffuser sheets together with the white plastic bezel and tried to keep it all together to simplify disassembly.
The white plastic rivets holding down the reflector sheet and strips can be removed from the top with a putty knife. The standoffs don’t need to be removed.
There are strips of double side tape holding down the reflector sheet. You will need work carefully to not damage the sheet too much.
It appears each strip is individually powered for local dimming. I only found 9 shorted LEDs out of 96 so they could have been repaired. 9 out of 12 strip had one bad LED. It appears the whole strip is shut down if there is a shorted LED on one.
When replacing the panel there is some black tape at the top. Make sure it in on the outside of the plastic bezel or else it might fold itself in to the viewing area.
There also side tabs that are covered by tape. Make sure they are covered again during assembly.